Tuesday, November 8, 2011

1987 MARINER

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Thursday, October 13, 2011

Boat Motors - What You Need To Know

!±8± Boat Motors - What You Need To Know

Boating is a recreational activity that improves the quality of life. It reduces different forms of stress and provides an enriching opportunity to immerse oneself in a physical activity without getting overloaded. Boating is an affordable recreation and helps one bond with family and friends.

Outboard Motors

Outboard motors are a motor engine consisting of engine, jet drive, and gearbox and are self-propelled. It is the most common engine used these days. They also provide steering control. Unlike inboard motors, outboard motors can be taken out for repairs or storage. When boats are not in use, outboard motors can be tilted by lifting the propeller and hauled out of water.

These are dependent on horsepower needed for the hull. Bad motor performance is linked to bad motors with low horsepower. The length of the shaft is 15 inch or 25 inch or 20 inch. A long shaft will dip too much into the water creating drag. This will affect the showing of the motor and also result in too much consumption of fuel. The height of the motor is also instrumental in achieving performance.

The motor should be placed as high as possible for better exhaust and contact with the water below. Hydrodynamic drag is reduced setting in higher speed for the boat. Trim is nothing but the slant in which a motor can be tilted on a boat to get maximum navigational efficiency. A slant also known as a trim of the maximum can result the bow of the boat raising high above the water. A neutral slant gives a normal boat ride. A trimmed in slant will eventually give a bow riding very low on the waters.

Ventilation is a state of the motor when the propellers are taking in too much air or exhaust gas and hence the load on the motor is lesser than usual. Cavitation is a phenomenon caused when vegetation, under growth, garbage or other waste gets stuck on the propellers of the motor.

Trolling Motors

A trolling motor is a propulsion system consisting of an electric motor, propeller and controls. It is used on a fishing boat at the bow or stem. Trolling motors are also referred to outboard motors if they are powered by gasoline. Trolling for game is usually a secondary means of propulsion. It is mounted along the outboard motor.

Auxiliary power is used to maneuver the boat. Trolling motors designed for this are mounted on the bow. They are the primary form of propulsion for small water craft. This is also used for kayaks and canoes. It is mostly used on lakes where gasoline powered engines are not allowed.

Electric Trolling Motors

This is 12, 24 or 36 volt DC electric motor to make the most of 12 volt batteries. The motor is sealed inside a watertight compartment at the edge of the shaft. The propeller is fitted on the prop-shaft. The tiller is used for steering with speed control. Foot control is available for speed controls. Wireless remote are available on high end late model trolling motors.

Gasoline Trolling Motors

Short sized outboard motors are also used as trolling motors on boats with larger engines. These boats do not travel efficiently at trolling speeds. These are operated through manual pull start, a throttle and gearshift controls mounted on the body of the motor. A tiller is used for steering and is for steering in a trolling motor.

Boating is a much enjoyable recreational activity, which adds to the betterment of ones life by improving health and recreation. It makes one occupied with a physical activity without need for much effort, detail, procedures or physical exertion. Outboard motors and trolling motors are used for boating rides and should be used as per a user's requirements for speed, need, and activity.


Boat Motors - What You Need To Know

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Saturday, September 24, 2011

Outboard Service

!±8± Outboard Service

Routine Maintenance Outboard

After the engine running properly, you must have a maintenance contract, which begins with systematic checks every time you establish your boat. These controls will not last long, but could the difference between life and death for your engine spell.

Daily inspection and maintenance Outboard

Daily checks should have a brief look at some important points. First, make sure the oil tank (if you have one) is crowned. If you have aFour-stroke engine make sure that the crankcase oil level and fill as needed for review. Check to determine the user's manual to see if the oil level should be screwed, or left without a trace, if you check the oil level. Otherwise it could cause a false reading, and over-or. Underfilling the crankcase, which can lead to problems.

Check if you have enough fuel for the journey, and that the fuel tank vent is open.
With the engine obliquely upwards, for more controlOil fields in the vicinity of the prop ... It could mean that the estate has deteriorated in the lower gear housing. (Note:. Some of the oil film formation is normal in many cases, look for changes in the level of accumulation if it seems to be increasing, check the oil level in the lower group as described in the manual) If the seal has failed Take the motor with a motor repair shop immediately to prevent damage to expensive gear.

Check that line wrapped around the propeller area. If you ignorecan determine the line wraps around the propeller shaft and cause the failure of the body above the seal gear.

If the engine is attached through the back of the boat, make sure the terminals are tight and secure. Many engines have landed on the bottom of the sea by the abandonment of this simple test.

Sniffing around for any sign of a fuel leak, and if you find one, fix the problem.

Once the engine is running, be sure to check the "traitor" or spray "tracer", or fumes,to be sure that the water pump is operating.

If all these elements are in order, you're ready to go. There is only one thing:

If you drag the boat on a trailer and running in salt water, rinse with fresh water every day cooling.

Monthly monitoring and maintenance of the outboard

Checked on a monthly basis, in addition to daily routine, it's a good idea to remove the engine cover and look for corrosion buildup in the vicinity of the cylinder heads and thermostat, which could indicateseal leaks. Also look for corrosion protection to the wire connections ... Clean and tighten as needed and then use a unique anti-corrosion spray available at your local dealer on all exposed electrical connectors and bare metal to your outboard.
Make sure gas and transmission shift controls without problems. Lubricate if necessary. Be aware that you are never the corridors, if the engine is running, so make sure that the boat is safe in a hurryDock before check-shift control for smooth operation.

Then, run the engine with the hood and check that none of the bolt-on components (fuel pump, voltage regulator, coil, etc.) have come loose from their mountings. Ensure that all wires and cables cut and mounted securely to belt. So, if the engine is equipped with an engine mounted fuel filter to see if water has collected in it. It will be easy to see how the water will separate fromfuel, falling down the screen, and relatively light in color compared to petrol / oil mixture over it. If you can see the water, remove the filter housing and drain the water. Clean install the screen element to ensure, and the O-rings before putting on the rear cover of this card and check for leaks after replacing the filter. Just pump the fuel Kraftstoffbalg until the filter / screen is filled with fuel, and look for fuel leaks.

Controlfor corrosion to the thermostat at the top of the cylinder head or engine block

Check if the corrosion on electrical connections

Next, you should check the status of all victims of zinc anodes on your engine. Check if the zincs on the bottom bracket with larger engines. There may be a card behind the propeller structure of zinc or zinc are bolted to a small anti-ventilation plate. Replace all zincs that more than half will be removed. In some areas can be dissolvedfairly quickly, and if the zinc is completely gone, it's the only thing to solve the crankcase.
Finally, check the battery in the engine, and fill the cells, if necessary.

Seasonal checks and maintenance of outboard

First we define the "season", a word. The way we use it here, actually means once every three months, or every full season of navigation, whichever comes first. In other words, if you start the whole year or for longer than three months in any case, do these checksand serviced at least once every three months, or about 50-75 hours each operation.

But if you're using in a region where the boat is limited to less than 75 days or three months ago, this "season" will be revised every year.

Three months (or seasonal) service checks

Seasonal check-ups are much more complete and operations may require the expertise of your local dealer, but will certainly be able to list all workshere except in rare cases.

Lubrication points ... All points of lubrication of the engine should be filled with fresh grease, as recommended by the manufacturer to the motor position. Keep the pump in grease until all the old grease and water is pressed out. It is a messy job, so to clean the old stuff with a cloth, as it is discharged to the lubrication point.

Propeller inspection ... First, some of your ignition system with ignition wires to the pins.Then remove the screw shaft for each fishing line wrapped to be inspected. If you can, cut them all out.

Check the propeller for nicks, burrs and unwanted bends in the propeller blades. If the scores are a minor, you can clean with a file.

Check the propeller of a deterioration of vulcanized rubber and its attachment to the hub splines. Any damage found could be trouble has been provided by the next season. If this hub is damaged, you must haverehubbed a new prop or support. If in doubt, let the dealer make the final call. You do not want to replace it, before you do anything.

If everything looks good here, clean the shaft on the old grease removed, and a thin layer of waterproof grease on the shaft passed. Do not reinstall the propeller, just like you want to run the engine cooling system flush, and you should never run the engine with the propeller from the water, because theobvious danger from the blades hum.

If you install the new propeller, however, remember to replace the cotter pin for the locking nut when the engine is equipped with one. If the engine uses a prop Nylock self locking nut must be replaced because of this barrier only once.

Transfer Case oil change ... The next step in the process of seasonal service is changing the gearbox oil. On most outboard motors, gear box, screw caps on the two clear of the gearbox.Some engines, however, the change is to drain and fill bolts on the hub in front of the propeller, in which case it can only be achieved with the propeller.

To drain the liquid from the device from the skeg clean the bottom of the motor and attach a piece of tape on the fin.

Take a clean container that is large enough to hold all the oil in the gearbox and put it under the tape. Remove the bottom drain plug. Not much will come outUp to slowly unscrew the top control. The oil is then kept on the side of the gearbox, on the side of the fin and the flow directly into the drip tray on the edge of the strip.

Check the oil for excessive metal shavings or discoloration. When the oil is milky, or if you have a large amount of water from the exhaust before the oil is known, then the water somehow migrated into the gearbox, that in a bad seal.

Clean the magnetic pickups that aredrain plug on a lot less and get ready to charge the lower unit with the correct gear oil.

A word of warning here: Get out of anyone who speaks to only use gear oil supplied from the auto parts store. Although this oil has the same smell of rotten eggs as the only liquid that may have just been removed from your outboard motor, can not be the same material. Typically, external devices, special oils, water dispersant additive found in them, which is not in the carNotes. Also note that not all outboard gear oil to use in their gear box. Some use four-stroke engine oil and other automotive uses a liquid much like automatic transmission fluid. Be sure to check the specifications of the engine. It 'best to go with your dealer for a container and fill with oil to buy a special pump.

These pumps are very cheap and fits not only the oil tank, but screw it directly into the threaded hole of the central connector lowEngine and minimizes confusion. This is an important point, because you will need to fill the gear box from the bottom up. Once setup you simply work the pump until you get to see the oil seeping from the upper hole plug control. Then install the plug housing and welcoming to the screw.

Subsequently, the discharge / fill plug ready to install, clean the magnetic pickup, and that will seal or O-ring seal is either in place of the screw or gearbox. Screw the pump and the instrumentquickly to drain / fill plug. Pull it completely. Wipe excess oil from the gears and check for leaks. Their oil change is done.

Cooling system ... The next step in the seasonal service is to wash your cooling system with fresh water. One precaution is to ensure that the adapter wire stays in place while you are flushing the engine. If the adapter slides over the lower unit to a point below the water intake, the engine could burn waterPump or the motor itself, if it is left unattended even for a short period.

As part of this service, cooling system, is also a good idea to remove and clean the engine, the thermostat, if it has one. The internal cavity in which adjusts the thermostat and bypass valve, a trap for sand, salt and debris generally, the past system of pick-up filter. They have expanded with the thermostat, clean any type of manure are there, and with the engine running fresh water running from the cleaning adapterthrough the engine at this time. At this point, so that the flow of water inside is white with no restrictions because of water loss at this time. Just run the engine long enough to understand that a good flow of water is poured solid.

After the thermostat has been cleaned, reinstall with new gaskets, and run the engine again to make sure that the thermostat cover does not leak. If the engine seemed to be running too hot lately, but the test showed the wateris always in sufficient quantity at this point, the operation of the thermostat could be the problem.

The replacement of the rotor. In addition to cleaning the cooling system and thermostat control, it is also possible for the replacement of water pump impeller, such as routine maintenance. Actually, the manufacturer's recommendations vary on this point, some say that you replace the impeller every year, and the other just replace if necessary. If you regularly venture into the open sea far awaythat the failure to replace the water pump could be a serious problem, the impeller every year.

On the other hand, if your engine only occasionally throughout the season, or a soft non-risky trips from ship to shore, I advise you to replace the impeller every two years.
Cylinder compression ... Now that you run the engine for a while 'to wash your cooling system, and heated up, it's a good idea to perform the annual test pressure. Remember, compressioncan control one of your basic needs and the compression of the engine often identify impending problems before they become large.

For example, elastic bands, are just starting to bubble gum to a low pressure before failing completely. Usually you can solve this problem by going to heal a liquid decarburization approved manufacturer as MAC or Mercury "Engine Tuner" from the engine. If you do not take this problem in time, the only solution is to dismantle the engine. It 'easy to useThis engine tuner's instructions are right there on the label.

What is often not so easy to understand what is normal for the engine compression. Often the specifications are not in the engine manual or in the service manual workshop. So it's a good idea to check the compression when the engine is fairly new and in good working condition. Note the numbers of compression for each cylinder in the manual for future reference.

As a matter of interest, the actualThe pressure is not so important, is the deviation from the norm that you should do with the thoughts. In the case of a multi-cylinder to worry if someone else to the cylinder varies from 15 pounds per square inch (psi) or more. If you are a single-cylinder engine, a drop of 15 psi from the standard is agreed that if there is new concern. The procedure to perform a pressure test is actually pretty simple, but must be followed exactly for your safety andAccuracy of the measurements. So be careful, do not skip all these steps:

1 First, turn off the ignition system to go from the band connecting the ignition module. If the engine is removed with an emergency stop switch, simply clip the cord to the engine off. If none of these solutions will work on your engine, take a jumper and connect one end of a good engine ground, and start the other end to the metal spark plug. You must use a jumperFor each plug wire. Remember that it is sufficient to remove all power is a dangerous move. After removing all your candles and start the engine turns over, an explosive fuel / oil mix is ​​spraying from the holes of the centering. A spark plug wire, and this mixture could ignite outside the combustion chamber, if it is not grounded to the engine. This could also free-wheeling kind of damage the spark ignition coils and modules.
2 Remove all the spark plugs, and be sure never to order inSo can be obtained from the cylinders are returned. Look carefully at the end of the connector business, looking for differences in color and signs of rust or water near the top.
3 The next argument of the compression gauge into the hole No. 1 spark plug and "zero" of teaching.
4 Turn on the gas as much as possible to ensure that the cylinder receives an unlimited amount of air. (Some engines allow only a very small opening, when the shift lever in neutral on guardTurn over.)
5 Run the engine more than an equal number of times for each cylinder test, and be sure to reset the counter for each cylinder. If you
electric start, count the seconds: "one thousand, two thousand, one thousand and 3004" committed and so on, with the key or start button. This gives you time to crank for a decent bed. If you have a pull starter, disconnect the power cord for each cylinder four-time 56, is being tested.
Record 6His readings of each cylinder for future reference. Use the 15 psi above criteria, to determine if further action is needed.

If compression readings are lower than normal for each cylinder, try a test of "wet" compression, which will temporarily seal the rings to determine and, if they read the cause of the low.

To perform this test, you get a can of your favorite oil misting nozzles and insert the tube in red print button. Now, with attention to the other endto distribute the spark plug hole in the hose and spray into the cylinder with a circular motion around spraying oil on the entire circumference of the piston. Spray approximately 4 seconds.

Remove the nozzle and install the compression tester. Turn the engine over exactly the same number of times you have to test and compare your previous reading likes. If the compression increases significantly, then start the ring to stick.

If the problem soon enough, began decarburizationwith an "Engine Tuner" fluid, as described above, healing is possible. If compression was very dry down and not show any change during the wet test, it is too late. His rings and / or pistons are up to the point where the disassembly of the main engine must be worn. So be brave and ask your dealer.

If two adjacent cylinders to provide a multi-cylinder has a value as low, or if there is evidence of rust or water on the spark plugs from the cylinders, then the problem is a defectiveCylinder head gasket. This is usually a major problem left to a professional to manage, but if you have enough experience in engine, you might want to meet.

By the way, the readings by a compression engine that has been stored for a long term care. While it is sitting idle, the piston rings "relax" and easily removed, often give a first reading to a minimum and misleading. Always turn the engine to operating temperature to ensure that the reading you get isexactly.

A final tip, if the candles are the engine for the entire season, now is the time to replace them.

Fuel System ... The next phase of the annual audit to carefully control the entire boot for signs of fuel leaks, loose terminals or broken pipes and worn squeeze bulbs. Any rust spots on the fuel tank should be sanded and repaired. Also check the fan for the tank. You should breathe freely. Any limitation canTo stop the engine.

An easy way to a loss of fuel from the primer bulb is to control the motor, press the bulb until it becomes solid, and keep the pressure on them to make sure that remains fixed while the engine is not running. If you do not stay fixed, there is a leak in the system between the piston and the motor or the motor in the carburetor or fuel pump.

You may need to remove some access panels on the boat to do a visual inspection of the fuel system, but notTo neglect this important task.

Automatic Oiler ... The next task is to examine the automatic mixing of oil and the engine is so equipped. Clean and check all cables and connections and replace any broken lines, loose connections and tighten if necessary. It 'a good idea to check with your provider for specific recommendations for the engine. On some engines, oil-feed pump is to composite membranes as part of an annual service will be replaced.

Steering ... The ship guidance systemmust be thoroughly inspected at least once a year, but do not hesitate to do it any time to see what the feeling unusual looseness or tightness in the steering wheel. Check the control cables for signs of separation, cracks in the outer packaging, or rust deposits near the end of the cable.

Battery ... Next, check and clean all battery cables and battery tops. Spread a thin layer of petroleum jelly or similar grease to light the most closely connected. If you intend to put the boatin storage, remove the battery and trickle charge every month.

Two final adjustments. Finally, you should ask your local dealer ignition timing, and adjust the carburetor (s). These methods are not part-time mechanic should look for on an outboard motor. There are too many expensive tools needed.


Outboard Service

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Wednesday, September 7, 2011

It 'always a good idea to Yamaha Marine Parts

!±8± It 'always a good idea to Yamaha Marine Parts

By Yamaha in the business of supply of marine engines and spare parts for many decades, it's pretty hard to go wrong when you purchase original parts Yamaha Marine. Yamaha engines and parts have a reputation for quality, durability and value for money. And when you're in water, reliability is an important concept to keep in mind. Nothing ruins a fun day on the lake or the ocean more than the failure of the sea. Therefore, it is the best idea you can buyOnly OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts from a reliable supplier.

Since owning a boat is a major cost factor, may be tempted to cut corners at times with the purchase of aftermarket parts. But you really want to ensure the safety (and security of your family and friends) of who knows what parts and made in a factory somewhere anonymous manufactured risk? The answer to this, a company should be "NO!" Parts from a reputable manufacturer in a factory certified and sold by aThe authorized dealers are much less likely to let you down and gives you somewhere. Therefore, you should always go with genuine Yamaha Marine. There is never a mistake, for the kind of quality brand, offers Yamaha parts.

It 'very important to buy shares for things such as Yamaha engines, propellers, and links. But since Yamaha offers a range of boat parts, you might want in what your local supplier or your online available for viewingKaufmann. One of the best things about the use of parts that are so popular Yamaha. Because Yamaha has an international reputation for its boat parts, engines, motorcycles, snowmobiles and the like, you can obtain parts Yamaha virtually anywhere in the world, and certainly in most marinas and marine shops in the U.S.

But no matter what you do with your boat, whether it is rebuilding an old engine or something less drastic than a complete overhaul, as well asroutine maintenance, you should always go with the use of original parts Yamaha Marine. In addition to using high quality components for repair and maintenance of the boat, you can also have the best suppliers for parts, use find. Fortunately, with the advent of the Internet, it is very simple comparison of prices for all the parts you need to ask. But if you are shopping for parts, do not forget to check the shipping cost. This can range from marine distributor partswith certain merchants with high shipping costs as an additional profit center. So be sure that the time for math, if you find that has done so as not to end up paying a lot for your pieces to take them, because the shipping cost is too high. Sometimes dealers will provide parts and boating, which seems to you at competitive prices that they charge for postage and packing form. Remember, the consumer informed of guy who does not turn off when pulledOrdering parts and accessories online.

To take the best from your boat, the engine is tuned and maintained for the rest of the boat well. Nautica is a hobby not cheap, but there is no reason to spend even more money needed for supplies and marine parts. Do your homework, take the time to do comparison shopping to do, and then look for a reliable low-cost provider that is charging too much for shipping and handling. The more you save more on yourRowing provides more money in your pocket for things like fuel, food and drinks for you and your friends will have, and feel better about the whole thing, because you know you're a smart shopper. So, always go with original Yamaha Marine from a reliable manufacturer and look around so you can get these quality parts at the best price.


It 'always a good idea to Yamaha Marine Parts

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Monday, August 15, 2011

Electric Outboard - The Green Alternative

!±8± Electric Outboard - The Green Alternative

Sometimes the effect is evident in the strips of oil pollution to the water and the remains of gasoline. The smoke that is driven by the much thinner. Consequently, governments of many countries have restricted the use of gasoline outboards in some places.

This is why electric outboard engines are gaining popularity every single day. They are not only powerful as their gas powered counterparts, but also more efficient and environmentally friendly. Ranging0.5 to 4 kW, the voltage reading these engines are not more than 12 to 48 VDC. With these electric motors connected directly to the propeller, the loss of power through agreements for additional equipment are excluded. This ensures a high degree of efficiency. She has the unique ability to operate under water, so they can work in difficult conditions, regardless of the nature and hardness of the water coming into contact with it.

There are many advantages of electric motorsMain is that they are environmentally friendly. Nor did they leave a trail of fuel while running or harmful emissions. Not the smooth operation of electric motors to scare the fish and their zero-emission propulsion ensures that the only aquatic species that are endangered, the fish were taken. They are much more efficient than gas-powered engines.

The need to lead, with cans of fuel were removed. The essence of peach andExcursions with electric motors due to the fact that a single charge, you, as a full tank of petrol again. Have low maintenance costs and extremely low weight. Although old lead-acid batteries have a lower power to weight ratio, the battery systems are developed that are more efficient and lighter than conventional systems.

Although electric boats take a toll on your wallet in the long run is not necessarily true that electric boats are not burdensomethe world's oil resources are revealed as green and joyriding on the marina. The unlimited possibilities for innovation make it possible for an electric motor of all sizes are created, this increases the probability that all gasoline engines may one day be replaced by electric motors.


Electric Outboard - The Green Alternative

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Thursday, August 11, 2011

Yamaha 6AX-45970-00-00 Prop Sws Xl 161/4 X; Outboard Waverunner Sterndrive Marine Boat Parts

!±8± Yamaha 6AX-45970-00-00 Prop Sws Xl 161/4 X; Outboard Waverunner Sterndrive Marine Boat Parts

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Yamaha Part # 6AX-45970-00-00; 6AX459700000 Prop Sws Xl 161/4 X

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Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Yamaha 65N-45981-00-00 Damper Prop; Outboard Waverunner Sterndrive Marine Boat Parts

!±8± Yamaha 65N-45981-00-00 Damper Prop; Outboard Waverunner Sterndrive Marine Boat Parts


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Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Propeller

!±8± Propeller

For long engine life and overall performance is only needed the right propeller. But not a single screw is right all the time. If you change the way the boats and marine engines, you must change the propeller, too. The propeller is wrong not only affect performance, but can quickly destroy the engine.

If you purchased your boat and engine as a combined package, the dealer for the propeller under the pre-delivery-rigging have votedProcess. Be sure to check with the dealer. But things can change, while the owner of the boat. The concessionaire will be selected on an engine based mean exposure for your boat. But you can add the heavy elements that will change this important selection criterion for the propeller.

Outboard powered houseboats and pontoon boats are the main examples of craftsmanship required to collect heavy equipment. Maybe you're just starting to tow a water skier. Maybe you have the original engine as an auxiliaryTo feed a small sailboat, and is used as a primary drive for lightweight sculls. Or maybe you are visiting on our mountain lakes taken. Extreme differences in elevation can affect the operating range of the engine. If the engine was based on sea level, the operation in a lake at high altitude require different support to keep the motor speed in the normal range. In fact, all these changes will require a renewed support.

The objective of the rigger engine is to ensure that yourEngine reaches a certain number of revolutions per minute (rpm) at full speed under normal conditions of use for your boat. Neither more nor less. In general, this comes at a maximum speed with a tolerance range 800-1000 rpm. The range is still listed in the shop manual for your engine, and is usually listed in the manual.

Before proceeding with an explanation of the theory of the propeller, let us define some basic terms helix.

PropellerTerminology

Pitch. This specification is the theoretical distance in inches that the propeller moves forward or backward in a complete circle. Think like a screw propeller, making its way into water.

In diameter. This is the straight line distance from the center of the hub to the farthest tip of the propeller blades, sometimes two.

Cupping. This term describes the "curl" at the trailing edge of a propeller blade. Cupping is used by engineersIncrease the theoretical slope of the blade, giving a better grip on the water.

Slip. This is associated with bad luck. The theoretical distance a propeller moves through the water in a round (step) to the fact that the propeller actually lose some distance with gliding through the water. Typically, a standard engine is somewhere between 10 and 30 percent have hatching, depending on their design and use.

Blade thickness. The design of the propeller and thematerial used determines the thickness of the blades. Ideally, the knives are made as thin as possible in order to reduce the resistance. But they also need stronger.

Cavitation. There are many causes of cavitation, including excessive stress on the propeller, the vapor bubbles on the leaf surface to create. The effect is to lose its grip on the engine and turn on water at high speed. Cavitation can through various front of the engine noise underwater, so something causedJust like a barnacle to the bottom of the engine, gearbox or a sonar transducer near the centerline of the boat attached. Notches on the leading edge of the propeller blades can also cause this condition. Cavitation can cause extreme damage to propeller blades, deep dimples, and ultimately, the loss of the blade

Ventilation. This is such a state of cavitation, but is usually drawn from the surface. Sometimes caused by too much "off" settingthe engine, or with the engine mounted too high on the rear. Sometimes the gases are drawn in the area of ​​the rotor blades. His unit has a bottom plate of the ventilation air is drawn down to prevent the propeller surface.

Rake. This is the angle between the sloping rear propeller hub and the blade. High-cut angle are used for motor boats to pass an increased tendency for aeration and cavitation.
In addition to the basic definitions, it is necessaryknow some more facts to work your way through the basic process of choosing the propeller.

The constructor method for the identification of the basic helix (in addition to the model number of the side) is used to enter the diameter and then the first pitch in inches. They are usually stamped on the propeller hub. For example, support stamped "14 x 17" has a diameter of 14 inches and a wheelbase of 17 inches. Other markers are specific to the manufacturer, stating thePropeller model and the general type.

What is the specific type of propeller for your application, you must obtain a copy of your master brand engine parts catalog (available for free on all merchants) and look at the list of recommendations helix. It 'set for specific performance and the type of use, as well as the weight or the type of boat. Just find the boat in its class (pontoon boats, ski boats, speed boats, etc.) and the power of the engine, and you'll be closer to the rightProp for your boat.

To determine the exact diameter and pitch that best suits you to study in detail the specifications table. Diameter, for example, will be determined by approximate normal speed for your boat, and usually the manufacturer's specifications on this list several possibilities.

To determine exactly the right tone, you need to do some tests on the water. I must stress that the only way to do this test accurately with a tachometer. IfThe boat does not have it, you should let the dealer do this work with his instrument.

Here is the sequence of tests:

1 Refer to user specified revolutions per minute (rpm) the engine is designed to establish reach full capacity. This is sometimes referred to as the full throttle or WOT.
2 Use your existing propeller, set a "benchmark" for several test runs in the water relatively calm. Customize your engine trim anglemaximum speed. Take your maximum RPM of the engine and top speed is achieved when you have a tachometer.
3 If the speed exceeds the recommended range full throttle, you need more space. You can install and test the next largest manufacturer of propellers and again. On average, the change in tone from a speed of 250 cm propeller revolutions per minute, is changing. That is, the motor speed of 250 revolutions per minute, if you reduce the height of an inch, and the acceptance of 250 revolutions per minute, when you increase the pace ofinches.
4 If the recommended rpm full throttle below the tolerance, install the propeller to the next lowest available, and testing.

You have reached the optimum setting if only you can load the maximum speed for the motor to the boat, as it should be indicated. This should also give the best speed.

For installations on non-planing craft, as heavy lifting and auxiliary sailboats, speed is more critical evaluation of this specificProcess. If the boat is not to reach the speed of the hull may be too coarse grid prevents the engine from its maximum development speed and then full power.


Propeller

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